2 - BRASS BUSHINGS 2 - PLASTIC TRIM CAPS 2 - 3/8" TRIM CAP MOUNTING WASHERS

2 - 7/16"(11mm) X 2.25" BOLTS 2 - SPACERS 2 - PLASTIC TRIM CAPS

2 - 7/16" TRIM CAP MOUNTING WASHERS

2 - 7/16" (11mm) X 1.25" BOLTS

WRENCHES

16mm or 5/8"

‘94 & LATER - 17mm or 11/16"

2 - 9/16"

10mm

HACK SAW OR AVIATION SNIPS FOR CUTTING PLASTIC INTERIOR PANELS

BELT SANDER OR HALF ROUND FILE FOR FITTING PLASTIC INTERIOR PANELS

T-40 TORX DRIVE FOR REMOVABLE HARD TOP LATCHES - OBVIOUSLY NOT EVERYONE WILL NEED THIS ONE

1)This step is my favorite part: PUT THE TOP DOWN!

2) REMOVE THE TRIM PANELS COVERING THE SEAT BELT TOWERS. (THESE PIECES

ARE CALLED QUARTER TRIM BY MAZDA.)

First remove the metal cap at the top of the panel just behind the door. This is held in place by a threaded fastener that is used to attach the top boot (10mm) and a Phillips head screw on the pre ‘99 cars. The "99 version is similar but an extra rubber molding has been added that is held in place by a plastic insert inside the top of the door jamb and another under the lip of the body just behind the door.

Remove the weather-stripping that runs along the front edge of the trim panel at the rear of the door opening. (you might find it necessary to loosen the 4 Phillips head screws in the scuff plate that runs along the bottom of the door sill on some early models)

Remove the plastic cover from the shoulder harness guide (it just snaps off) ,loosen the

bolts and remove the bolt and spacers from the guide.

On the ‘94-’97 models Remove the cockpit brace end covers (they also snap), loosen the

bolts and remove the cockpit brace.

There is a small plastic clip at the rear of the trim panel just behind the hole the shoulder harness guide bolt goes through. Remove the clip by pulling it toward the rear of the car.

If you have a ‘99 with the wind blocker remove the screws and lift the wind blocker out. The trim panel can now be removed by pulling it toward the center of the car.

3) REMOVE THE LOWER SEAT BELT REEL BOLTS (16mm pre’94 17mm ‘94 and later) AND SPACERS. Also remove seat belt reel alignment screw at the top of the mounting bracket (small screw w/ 10mm head). Pull the complete assembly forward and bend the alignment tab down flat, this will allow the reel to tilt inward for better seat belt alignment and retraction after the bar is installed.

4) GO GET SOME HELP!

5) Y’ALL SET THE BAR IN THE CAR - Place the bar in the car with the labels on the lower part of the bar forward. The horizontal mounting plates half way up the bar should fit over the top of the seat belt tower and align with the bolt hole that held the shoulder harness guide. The lower mounting points align (hopefully) with the lower seat belt reel bolt holes. The roll bar foot plates fit against the seat belt reels which stay in their original location but do not use the original spacers.(FIG# 1) Once the Hard Bar and those rascally seat belt reels are in position start but do not completely tighten the footplate mounting bolts from the hardware kit, make sure that your seat belts are on the inside of the roll bar.

Install the upper mounting bolts through the upper mounting plate with the spacer under the plate in place of the original shoulder harness guide bolt and spacers,(FIG# 2) be sure the trim cap mounting washers are under the bolt heads, we want this thing to look nice when you get done! The shoulder harness guide is NOT installed at this point, DO NOT install the guide under the mounting bolt. Attach the seat guide to the bar through the smaller hole in the upper mounting plate using the bolts, washers and bushings supplied in the hardware kit.(FIG# 3) Be careful, don’t drop any hardware down in the seat belt reel!

6) TIGHTEN THE FASTENERS: MOUNTING BOLTS 50 ft-lbs SEAT BELT GUIDE BOLTS 20ft-lbs

7) CUT QUARTER TRIM PANELS - This will only hurt a little. In order to reinstall the trim panels they have to be cut into two pieces, it’s not really all that bad, it just takes some time to do it right. I use a small air powered reciprocating saw to do the dirty work, but a hack saw or a pair of aviation snips (tin snips) will do just fine. It’s fairly evident as to where the cut needs to be made, just cut the panel and trim to fit up to the roll bar, but maybe FIG# 4B will help to make things easier. A belt sander gives a nice straight finished edge but a large fairly coarse (wood type) file will suffice. Take several small cuts to get a good fit, you can always take more off but it’s hard to put back. In addition to the vertical cut, a semicircular area will have to be removed along the outer top area of the panel to fit up to the bar.(FIG# 4A)

The final cut is to elongate the seat belt hole, trim to the vertical edge, cut the end off of the rectangular seat belt trim rings that were snapped out of the quarter trim during the disassembly so that they will fit back into the elongated seat belt holes and butt up against the roll bar.(FIG# 4A)